Surfing Direct

Help choosing a surf board!?

I’m 5’11 and 160lbs I neve3r surfed before and I am a pretty good swimmer. I know I should get a longboard but should I get a foamie or a good fiberglass board? Money really isn’t an issue cuz I’m getting it at a used board store in San Diego. Also I was thinking of getting a 7-8 foot fiberglass board. Would this be a good size/type for a beginner? I want a board that I can learn on wihtout getting too fustrated but also one that I will be happy with for a good year or two after i start surfing.

For some reason, it seems like somebody asks this same question at least once every ten days!
Surfing is an ocean sport. before you decide to surf, decide to know and understand the ocean. Learn to be at home with its currents, rips, undertows and sometimes BIG waves. The original surfers were watermen (and women, both men and women surfed, but certain waves were reserved for royalty).

I spent almost all of my teen years, swimming, sailing, surfing, scuba diving and fishing. I even surfed in different places the Navy sent me, when it was possible.

There are good things about both long and short boards. I ride both (one at a time , of course). In the mid sixties, like almost everybody else, I started on a longboard. I went shorter and shorter every summer, during the ‘short board revolution.’ After getting out of the service, I had afew years of sporadic surfing, before I got back to surfing as much as possibly could. (I’ve driven 650 miles to go surfing!). I found some days that were just too small anything but a longboard. Just riding one size board is very limiting, conditions change daily in most places.

I am old, and fat and slow, so even my shortboard is 7’6″. My 6’4″ is a collectors’ item now. Not every break has ripper, head high waves every day. A longboard is great for plenty of glide in that knee high stuff. One more reason to surf every chance I can.

Surfing is an ocean sport, to do it right, you have to be at home in the ocean, with its currents, rips, undertows and sometimes big waves. I don’t just mean being good at swimming in a pool, the ocean can be very unforgiving. I have seen lots of really good pool swimmers have to get rescued. You have to learn surf etiquette (so the experienced surfers in the line up don’t want to drown you), how to paddle and take off on a wave, and how to ride a wave. You can’t do that without an ocean.

Lessons are usually the best way to start, unless you are an adolescent or young adult with lots of pals who surf who can teach you. Go to a real surf shop. The folks there can hook you up with lessons, and even rent you a board to learn on. Just work on your basics, and after you feel good, think about buying a board, but don’t rush into anything.

Be careful of what you read here on line. There are lots of really well meaning young folks who have neat answers about surfing, but at 55, I tend to classify anyone under 25 as a kid. After I found this site, I figured that I could answer a few questions, and spread the ‘good news’ of surfing. After you learn to swim and master the ocean, get your REAL advice from a surf shop, where industry professionals earn their rent money selling surfboards. You probably weren’t in a real good surf shop, check out some others. However, if they think you are just a ‘kook’ tourist out to rent a board, you won’t necessarily get the best attention.

Most people learn best on long boards, although I have seen lots of surfers start on a short board and master it. Long boards are ideal for learners. There are also good internediate length boards to learn on, funshapes, mini-mals and some hybrids.

THE REAL BOTTOM LINE IS: Go to a Surf Shop, not a computer. The pros there can give you the right answers!!

Good luck. Once you try surfing (and learn the ‘right way’) you’ll have fun for life.

Take the time to check out the links, especially surfingforlife.

http://www.surfingforlife.com/history.ht…

http://www.mckevlins.com/nopopstory.htm

http://360guide.info/surfing/surfboard-t…

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